safely home

We got home last night, after a slight delay in Washington DC and three otherwise uneventful flights. We were both exhausted after being up 25 hours and hit our bed. We were both awake at 4 this morning Seattle time, since it was 1 pm Croatia time.

We had a great trip, and we are glad to be home. Thanks for reading my blog!

Anne

Split

We left the boat this morning and caught the bus to Split. It is raining and a little cold, warmer than Seattle tho.


We just dropped off our laundry to be done at a self service laundrette and internet place. We have checked into our hotel and plan to do a little exploring. We are going to rest and get ready to fly home on monday. We'll explore Diocletian's palace and hang out here in Split.

Anne

More Croatia photos

Here's our group photo, on the island of Hvar
Sunrise
Peggy watching the swimmers
More swimmers

It's uphill out of each harbor
Yesterday's 10k climb out of Hvar harbor into desolate country
Peggy and others at the top
Another day, another harbor

A samoyed and owner
Grapes ready to be pressed
Sometimes sunny, sometimes cloudy, always red tile roofs and grey walls
A national day in Hvar so they were going to celebrate in national costume

Trogir, Croatia

We are now moored back in Trogir, with tonight the last night on the boat. We sailed this morning to Soltie, and biked the 19k from one end to the other. We celebrated by swimming in the Adriatic, which was a lot like Puget Sound. Then lunch and a motor (with a nap) to Trogir. Tonight we have our celebration dinner. Peggy has a song planned. She has got participation from one of the German's Maria, who is a music therapist. There will be the chorus in both english and german.

We head off tomorrow for two nights in Split, nearby, then fly home.

We are ready to be home, ready to be off the bike for a few days, and ready to see our friends and family. It's been a good trip, but time to come home.

Anne

Stari Grad, Hvar Island

We are moored in Stari Grad harbor. This morning we rode from Hvar to Stari Grad which was accurately described as 10k up and 10k down. The country had been burned so it was desolate and we had a headwind. The famous lavendar plants were all done blooming. After lunch (and a nap) on the boat we rode over to Jelsa for ice cream. Of course we didn't ride the flat and straight way but went via several hillside villages. We did return the flat unpaved road, leaving us wondering which was better, the hills or the washboard ride. 25k this afternoon for a total of 45k. Tomorrow we motor to Solta Island and ride end to end, all of 19k. Then we motor back to Trogir for our final night on the boat.

Today we had a headwind all morning, bugs (keep your mouth shut downhill) and dust. Dark clowds but no rain. Yesterday I had a flat and today Peggy's seat came loose. We don't have our tools so had to have the guide and other riders help us out. We won't come without our allen wrench set again.

anne

Vela Luka

Peggy and I are sitting in the sun having our beverage of choice along the harbour in Vela Luka on the island of Korkula. We motored this morning to the town of Korkula thru a straight open to the adriatic. Quite a rocky start to the morning. We started riding at 9:30 and went a relatively level 6k or so then started a steep climb. We had a 5k climb which was steeper than riding up queen Anne hill in places. I think everyone walked up part of the hill. I walked more since I got a flat partway up. Then Peggy left her bag at the first coffee stop and we had to go back uphill Hk or so to retreive it. So we had lunch Bran and the rode another 6k flat and then 5k uphill. A total of 68 k for us today. We had are pooped but feeling good about what we accomplished.

#omorrow the island of Hvar.

Anne

Croatia photos

partway up the climb
Mljet harbor
mljet sunset

Peggy along the Adriatic
Our captain with our dinner
Peggy along a descent

Pomena, Mljet island

We had two rides today, starting with a steep climb much like some of the california climbs. The road kept going up and around. It was twisty enough that a semi going one way had trouble passing a bus going the other way on a turn. After the 10k climb we leveled off and met up for a wine tasting. The region makes reds and whites, but mostly reds like zinfandels. Then we rode thru a 400 meter tunnel with two lights. We then had a 7k descent to the boat. We spenr lunchtime crossing to Mljet. Here we explored the national park,riding another 12k. Peggy and I had ice cream after all that.

Tomorrow we motor to Korcula again and have a 60k ride with some of the climbs at 12 to 15 percent. There is a 12k option which some are taking. The sitances aren't bad, but the combination might be a long day.

We are getting ready to come home. Its hard to be excited about yet another 12th century monastery and chapel.

anne

Korcula

I had a long post written last night and then deleted it by hitting the wrong key. I'll try to hit the highlights at least. Korcula is a town of 3800 on the 6th largest island in Croatia. There are 1182 islands with only 66 of them inhabited. The total population of the country is 4.5 million, so less than Washington state. Our ride yesterday was 30k with some steeper uphills. Peggy and I got back to the boat first because we didn't stop.at the golden horn beach to swim.

Today we motor to Peljesac and ride 30k including wine tasting. This is not an elderhostel trip. We wine taste then ride some more. Helmets are recommended, but we always wear our. We're off to Peljesac. anne

Brac Island, Croatia

Last night we were moored in Omis and today we rode 43k up a pretty river canyon and back. From the top of the descent back it looked like we had ridden up past all the Skagit dams. The view was straight down at the tailrace and substations of a powerhouse. Also thru a slot between mountaims looking at the sea. We then motored over to Brac island where we had the afternoon off. Not much was going on here as it is Sunday. Tomorrow we have a steeper but shorter ride to the other side of the island. 30k and 500m vertical. We had a good time on the ride, feeling good going uphill and at our own speed. The directions and map were in conflict so a few people took an extra ride before they discovered the mistake. This is so not an elderhostel ride. From the first ride with some people without helmets and then the leader starting us out going the wrong way on a one way street. This is a little looser than we are used to. Of course every announcement is made in both english and german. The food is good, lots of fish and salads. A little noisy at night. The shower is a handheld in the bathroom. Each cabin has a bathroom tho, and we are moored and on shore power each night so peggy can use her cpap machine. I,m fighting a cold the elderhostelers were passing around. Hopefully it'll stay an easy cold and I can keep chugging up the hills.

anne

photos from Verona and Trogir Croatia

the castle in Trogir
Our boat, the Kapetan Jure
The castle and a channel
Juliet's balcony in Verona (not)
Castle bridge in Verona
A palladian villa
Verona's arena and city hall
Another palladian villa
The country between Padua and Vincenza

Trogir, Croatia

Yesterday we traveled from Verona to Split and then Trogir in Croatia. It took all day, including taxis, train, bus, and two plane rides. Trogir is where we meet the boat to do our bike ride. The boat is tied up close by to the hotel we are staying at. It is partly cloudy and getting warmer, supposed to be in the 70's.

I may be out of touch while we are in the islands. I'm going to post some photos now, hopefully. We are doing well, adjusting to a new language (if we speak english we are ok, so our automatic italian responses are not correct now).

Anne

Verona

As last many of you know, although Shakespeare never set foot in Ital he really put Verona on the map. We stood below the Capulet's balcony, next to the other tourists, saw the love messages left by thousands, and walked the same steps as Dante.

Last night we had dinner with Craig and John, good friends from Seattle. They happened to be here the same night. We'd barely arrived after riding, surrendering our bikes, visiting a Palladian villa with great frescoes and the a winery to taste the local Soave wine. We really enjoyed eating what we wanted, not wshat the group got. The days start out cold, the warm up. We are at about 45 degrees north, so think about Corvallis for weather. It is still fall here. We have the rest of today off and then our farewell group dinner. Peggy and I are working on a song for that.

Tomorrow we take the train to Venice and fly to Croatia via Rome.

Anne

photos from Chioggia to Padua

St Anthony's Basilica in Padua
The old Justice hall, with vegetable market outside and meat and fish inside
A poor graduat being roasted

our group, on a levee
The countryside from my bike
Villa Pisano in Stra

Padua

Sorry for the delay in posting. I'm having trouble connecting to the internet via my phone, so I needed to have time to get to an internet place. We rode a record 43 miles yesterday, starting in Sotomarina and ending in Padua. It was flat, and mostly on small roads or on the levees of canals. Some was gravel. It started out cold and ended warm. We were out of water, tired, hot and needed a bathroom by the time we got to Padua. Those boys have it easy. There weren't any big enough bushes for us girls along the way.

We had a long lunch break in Piave de Sacco, and it warmed up enough for us to sit outside in the sun. The country reallly reminded me of riding in the Skagit valley, flat farmland with levees.

This morning we did a tour of Padua, seeing the Giotto frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel and St Anthony's Basilica. Peggy and I had walked up to the fruit market before the tour, and had explored a little on our own. There are 60,000 students here, and we saw several enduring their graduation roasting outside the university this morning. This involves having their friends prepare the roast on a large paper, and the student, dressed in a ridiculous costume gets to stand and read it. If they make a mistake they take a drink and start all over. One poor student was in boots and skis on a bench reading hers and chugging wine from a popcorn container.

We will go out to Stra to see the Villa Pisano this afternoon, by bus. We actually rode by it yesterday on bike. It is a Palladian Villa, and quite spectacular.

Tomorrow we ride partway to Verona, then give up our bikes and do the rest by bus.

We've decided that while the elderhostel distances are good, the pace is a little slow. It took us from 8:30 to 5 PM to ride 43 miles yesterday. Not just lots of breaks but a slow pace. We are all required to ride behind the leader, so all we can do is go fast up to him. Peggy and I have done that when we've been a corner and get back into the group at the tail end. Tomorrow I'll be sweep for our 15 mile ride.

yesterday I was a corner near the end, and last group missed a turn and didn't show up. I walked back so I could see them and shouted, but they didn't see me. A nice italian gentleman talked to me, and then went and found them. A corner needs to stay at their post until it snows, so I couldn't chase them down. The guide was coming back to find them, and they found me, all at the same time.

We do like the elderhostel lectures and tours, although by now we'd like to stay some of these places a little longer.

We have dinner with Craig and John tomorrow night in Verona.

Anne

Sotomarina

We are in the southwest corner of the Venice lagoon. Sotomarina is connected the Chioggia, which is on the land side of the lagoon. We had a busy day, starting with a lecture about the history of Venice's maritime republic (hard to cover it all in 1 hr) the a water taxi ride to Murano the glass island. We had a better demonstation of glass blowing and as described in rick steves they made a little 'orse. Then we had a little time to eat lunch and shop and also make our way back to a vaporetto stop. Two rides later we were back on Lido, the barrier island. We quickly got ready to bike and rode to the other end of Lido. We took a ferry to the next island, then rode it lengthwise and met a boat which had been hired to take us to Chioggia. Picture a 40 ft powerboat, the add 20 bikes and riders. Both boat rides were short. Total bike distance was under 15 miles. We were under gray skies with some sprinkles and wind. The temp was cooler and we all were cold.

We will get up and ride the 36 miles to Padua tomorrow. We had a pleasant dinner tonight ans are now listening to the wedding reception music from the banquet room below us. I think we'll sleep well tonight.

anne

Photos from Vicenza to Venice

our bikes on the ferry, going to Lido
Waiting for our tour by St Marks

The hill town of Asola
Bike trail by a canal
Our group regrouping by the corn
Riding by the River Sile

Peggy in Bossano del Grappa
Up in the mountain meadows in Asiago
lots of cheese
We're overlooking the famous Bridge in Bossano

mini Venice statues in Vicenza
Regrouping outside a bar (they have restrooms)
Typical first day riding, mountains on the left, corn and other crops
The river, mountains, and gorgeous Bossano

Venice (Lido)

We arrived in Venice yesterday by bike and foot. A very different experience than by the usual train. The 4 km long causeway does have a bike trail, until it becomes too narrow and you must walk. We rode in the morning along the river Sile, a beautiful series of bike trails, some paved, some gravel, and some no more than a grass road. We then rode through country lanes, although parallel and crossing larger roads and in sight and hearing of Venice's airport. We worked our way thru downtown Maestre (quite charming) and into industrial Maestre (not charming) and under the RR tracks onto the approaches to the causeway.

Yesterday's ride was 32 miles, under brightening skies. We took the car ferry to Lido, and rode a short distance to our hotel. Lido is the barrier island between the Adriatic and the Venice Lagoon. So the ferry went by St Marks, and those of us who'd been here before were pointing out sites to those who had not.

Today we go into Venice for a walking tour and tour of the Doges palace and St Marks. Then free time. We plan to tag along with the tour, even tho we were here last week.

Anne

Treviso

We are in Treviso tonight. It appears to be a moderate sized town with a medeval center. W rode 38 miles today, with a lunch stop in Asola. That is a hill town so we had our biggest climb of the trip. It wasn't that steep or long for those of us from the northwest but was for the flatlanders. The hill town has attracted some famous people. Robert Browning dedicated a poem to there.

We rode the whole distance at our slow pace. Peggy volunteered to be sweep, which means she must be last at all times and make sure everyone gets in. She didn't lose anyone and showed great patience today.

We had a lecture this morning on the 7 provinces of the Veneto and the agricultural products from each one. Lots of radicchio, other vegetables. The population density is high, and the average farn size is very small (only a few acres).

Tomorrow we ride 32 flat miles to the tronchetto, where we catch the vaperetto to the Lido outside venice. We have our lecture on Venice after the ride and before dinner tomorrow. The ride system is working ok, but the basic cruising speed is omly 12 mph. With stops we are much slower than Prggy and I are used to riding. If we are in the group we can pass people and ride faster until we get to the front. We can't pass the front guide tho.

Photos will get posted the day after tomorrow, when we're in Venice. We know where the internet places are there.

Anne

Bassano Del Grappa day two

We got to go up to Asiago where they make cheese of the same name. Fortunately. we rode up in a bus as it was 3000 ft vertical in 15 miles. It would be a spectacular ride, and some riders were doing it. There were 14 hairpin switchbacks and the a town. Then more. We felt fortunate to be on the bus. At the top we found green meadows with grazing cows, a little ski hill, alpine houses and blue skies. The cheese tour was similar to most, with the added issue of language. The cheese is very good, and worth the price.

We then got bussed back to the hotel aand had a break for lunch on our own. We tried to find the elusive internet café and failed. I had a nap, then we had the walking tour followed by grappa tasting. The city has medeval walls and castle, has been part of vincenza then Venezia, and is at a key spot a the end of a pass thru the mountains from Austria. In fact, the area where the cheese factory was Germanic or an independent state until after wwI. So they make the cheese two ways, the german way and the italian way. Bassano was the site of heavy fighting in both wars and it,s famous bridge was destroyed both times.

The bridge is wood, was designed by Palladio, and uses trapezoidal wooded support to resist the water. They are narrow and pupendicular to the bridge. Downstream of the bridge a canal is diverted that goes all the way to Padua. In the 17th and 18th centuries the commerce was by boat.

We tasted the grappa (distilled from grape skins) and other liquers made by the Nardini family, who have been making it since the 1770's.

The grappa is 100 proof so pretty strong. They use it to make some infused liquers.

Aftr the tasting we tried again to find the internet café. Peggy gave up, then I finally gave up. So no photos today. Bassano is very pretty. Like Sound of music pretty. Like Leavenworth and the italian hill towns mixed together.

Tomorrow we ride to Treviso, which is north of Venice. We ride 38 miles wich at the snails pace we rode yesterday will take all day. Since some of the elderhostel participants are in the 80's, we won't be speeding along. Hopefully we'll get ther ewithout losing anyone. anne

Bassano Del Grappo

Today we rode about 25 miles from Vincenza to Bassano Del Grappa. We are tucked into the edge of the hills. we rode thru small towns and farmlands. The country reminded me of the Skagit valley as there were mountains to our west and north all day. the riding was pretty flat until the last 6 miles. this town isn't a mix of leavenworth and Italian hill towns. We'LL do several tours here tomorrow including asagio cheese, a walking tour of the town and grappa tasting. I'll send photos tomorrow. I
It is spectacular here. ANNE

Venice and Vincenza photos

Sky in Venice after the rain
Everything, including excavation spoils, goes in and out by boat
Palladio's Olympic theater

Rainbow in Venice