Croatia photos

partway up the climb
Mljet harbor
mljet sunset

Peggy along the Adriatic
Our captain with our dinner
Peggy along a descent

Pomena, Mljet island

We had two rides today, starting with a steep climb much like some of the california climbs. The road kept going up and around. It was twisty enough that a semi going one way had trouble passing a bus going the other way on a turn. After the 10k climb we leveled off and met up for a wine tasting. The region makes reds and whites, but mostly reds like zinfandels. Then we rode thru a 400 meter tunnel with two lights. We then had a 7k descent to the boat. We spenr lunchtime crossing to Mljet. Here we explored the national park,riding another 12k. Peggy and I had ice cream after all that.

Tomorrow we motor to Korcula again and have a 60k ride with some of the climbs at 12 to 15 percent. There is a 12k option which some are taking. The sitances aren't bad, but the combination might be a long day.

We are getting ready to come home. Its hard to be excited about yet another 12th century monastery and chapel.

anne

Korcula

I had a long post written last night and then deleted it by hitting the wrong key. I'll try to hit the highlights at least. Korcula is a town of 3800 on the 6th largest island in Croatia. There are 1182 islands with only 66 of them inhabited. The total population of the country is 4.5 million, so less than Washington state. Our ride yesterday was 30k with some steeper uphills. Peggy and I got back to the boat first because we didn't stop.at the golden horn beach to swim.

Today we motor to Peljesac and ride 30k including wine tasting. This is not an elderhostel trip. We wine taste then ride some more. Helmets are recommended, but we always wear our. We're off to Peljesac. anne

Brac Island, Croatia

Last night we were moored in Omis and today we rode 43k up a pretty river canyon and back. From the top of the descent back it looked like we had ridden up past all the Skagit dams. The view was straight down at the tailrace and substations of a powerhouse. Also thru a slot between mountaims looking at the sea. We then motored over to Brac island where we had the afternoon off. Not much was going on here as it is Sunday. Tomorrow we have a steeper but shorter ride to the other side of the island. 30k and 500m vertical. We had a good time on the ride, feeling good going uphill and at our own speed. The directions and map were in conflict so a few people took an extra ride before they discovered the mistake. This is so not an elderhostel ride. From the first ride with some people without helmets and then the leader starting us out going the wrong way on a one way street. This is a little looser than we are used to. Of course every announcement is made in both english and german. The food is good, lots of fish and salads. A little noisy at night. The shower is a handheld in the bathroom. Each cabin has a bathroom tho, and we are moored and on shore power each night so peggy can use her cpap machine. I,m fighting a cold the elderhostelers were passing around. Hopefully it'll stay an easy cold and I can keep chugging up the hills.

anne

photos from Verona and Trogir Croatia

the castle in Trogir
Our boat, the Kapetan Jure
The castle and a channel
Juliet's balcony in Verona (not)
Castle bridge in Verona
A palladian villa
Verona's arena and city hall
Another palladian villa
The country between Padua and Vincenza

Trogir, Croatia

Yesterday we traveled from Verona to Split and then Trogir in Croatia. It took all day, including taxis, train, bus, and two plane rides. Trogir is where we meet the boat to do our bike ride. The boat is tied up close by to the hotel we are staying at. It is partly cloudy and getting warmer, supposed to be in the 70's.

I may be out of touch while we are in the islands. I'm going to post some photos now, hopefully. We are doing well, adjusting to a new language (if we speak english we are ok, so our automatic italian responses are not correct now).

Anne

Verona

As last many of you know, although Shakespeare never set foot in Ital he really put Verona on the map. We stood below the Capulet's balcony, next to the other tourists, saw the love messages left by thousands, and walked the same steps as Dante.

Last night we had dinner with Craig and John, good friends from Seattle. They happened to be here the same night. We'd barely arrived after riding, surrendering our bikes, visiting a Palladian villa with great frescoes and the a winery to taste the local Soave wine. We really enjoyed eating what we wanted, not wshat the group got. The days start out cold, the warm up. We are at about 45 degrees north, so think about Corvallis for weather. It is still fall here. We have the rest of today off and then our farewell group dinner. Peggy and I are working on a song for that.

Tomorrow we take the train to Venice and fly to Croatia via Rome.

Anne

photos from Chioggia to Padua

St Anthony's Basilica in Padua
The old Justice hall, with vegetable market outside and meat and fish inside
A poor graduat being roasted

our group, on a levee
The countryside from my bike
Villa Pisano in Stra

Padua

Sorry for the delay in posting. I'm having trouble connecting to the internet via my phone, so I needed to have time to get to an internet place. We rode a record 43 miles yesterday, starting in Sotomarina and ending in Padua. It was flat, and mostly on small roads or on the levees of canals. Some was gravel. It started out cold and ended warm. We were out of water, tired, hot and needed a bathroom by the time we got to Padua. Those boys have it easy. There weren't any big enough bushes for us girls along the way.

We had a long lunch break in Piave de Sacco, and it warmed up enough for us to sit outside in the sun. The country reallly reminded me of riding in the Skagit valley, flat farmland with levees.

This morning we did a tour of Padua, seeing the Giotto frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel and St Anthony's Basilica. Peggy and I had walked up to the fruit market before the tour, and had explored a little on our own. There are 60,000 students here, and we saw several enduring their graduation roasting outside the university this morning. This involves having their friends prepare the roast on a large paper, and the student, dressed in a ridiculous costume gets to stand and read it. If they make a mistake they take a drink and start all over. One poor student was in boots and skis on a bench reading hers and chugging wine from a popcorn container.

We will go out to Stra to see the Villa Pisano this afternoon, by bus. We actually rode by it yesterday on bike. It is a Palladian Villa, and quite spectacular.

Tomorrow we ride partway to Verona, then give up our bikes and do the rest by bus.

We've decided that while the elderhostel distances are good, the pace is a little slow. It took us from 8:30 to 5 PM to ride 43 miles yesterday. Not just lots of breaks but a slow pace. We are all required to ride behind the leader, so all we can do is go fast up to him. Peggy and I have done that when we've been a corner and get back into the group at the tail end. Tomorrow I'll be sweep for our 15 mile ride.

yesterday I was a corner near the end, and last group missed a turn and didn't show up. I walked back so I could see them and shouted, but they didn't see me. A nice italian gentleman talked to me, and then went and found them. A corner needs to stay at their post until it snows, so I couldn't chase them down. The guide was coming back to find them, and they found me, all at the same time.

We do like the elderhostel lectures and tours, although by now we'd like to stay some of these places a little longer.

We have dinner with Craig and John tomorrow night in Verona.

Anne

Sotomarina

We are in the southwest corner of the Venice lagoon. Sotomarina is connected the Chioggia, which is on the land side of the lagoon. We had a busy day, starting with a lecture about the history of Venice's maritime republic (hard to cover it all in 1 hr) the a water taxi ride to Murano the glass island. We had a better demonstation of glass blowing and as described in rick steves they made a little 'orse. Then we had a little time to eat lunch and shop and also make our way back to a vaporetto stop. Two rides later we were back on Lido, the barrier island. We quickly got ready to bike and rode to the other end of Lido. We took a ferry to the next island, then rode it lengthwise and met a boat which had been hired to take us to Chioggia. Picture a 40 ft powerboat, the add 20 bikes and riders. Both boat rides were short. Total bike distance was under 15 miles. We were under gray skies with some sprinkles and wind. The temp was cooler and we all were cold.

We will get up and ride the 36 miles to Padua tomorrow. We had a pleasant dinner tonight ans are now listening to the wedding reception music from the banquet room below us. I think we'll sleep well tonight.

anne

Photos from Vicenza to Venice

our bikes on the ferry, going to Lido
Waiting for our tour by St Marks

The hill town of Asola
Bike trail by a canal
Our group regrouping by the corn
Riding by the River Sile

Peggy in Bossano del Grappa
Up in the mountain meadows in Asiago
lots of cheese
We're overlooking the famous Bridge in Bossano

mini Venice statues in Vicenza
Regrouping outside a bar (they have restrooms)
Typical first day riding, mountains on the left, corn and other crops
The river, mountains, and gorgeous Bossano

Venice (Lido)

We arrived in Venice yesterday by bike and foot. A very different experience than by the usual train. The 4 km long causeway does have a bike trail, until it becomes too narrow and you must walk. We rode in the morning along the river Sile, a beautiful series of bike trails, some paved, some gravel, and some no more than a grass road. We then rode through country lanes, although parallel and crossing larger roads and in sight and hearing of Venice's airport. We worked our way thru downtown Maestre (quite charming) and into industrial Maestre (not charming) and under the RR tracks onto the approaches to the causeway.

Yesterday's ride was 32 miles, under brightening skies. We took the car ferry to Lido, and rode a short distance to our hotel. Lido is the barrier island between the Adriatic and the Venice Lagoon. So the ferry went by St Marks, and those of us who'd been here before were pointing out sites to those who had not.

Today we go into Venice for a walking tour and tour of the Doges palace and St Marks. Then free time. We plan to tag along with the tour, even tho we were here last week.

Anne

Treviso

We are in Treviso tonight. It appears to be a moderate sized town with a medeval center. W rode 38 miles today, with a lunch stop in Asola. That is a hill town so we had our biggest climb of the trip. It wasn't that steep or long for those of us from the northwest but was for the flatlanders. The hill town has attracted some famous people. Robert Browning dedicated a poem to there.

We rode the whole distance at our slow pace. Peggy volunteered to be sweep, which means she must be last at all times and make sure everyone gets in. She didn't lose anyone and showed great patience today.

We had a lecture this morning on the 7 provinces of the Veneto and the agricultural products from each one. Lots of radicchio, other vegetables. The population density is high, and the average farn size is very small (only a few acres).

Tomorrow we ride 32 flat miles to the tronchetto, where we catch the vaperetto to the Lido outside venice. We have our lecture on Venice after the ride and before dinner tomorrow. The ride system is working ok, but the basic cruising speed is omly 12 mph. With stops we are much slower than Prggy and I are used to riding. If we are in the group we can pass people and ride faster until we get to the front. We can't pass the front guide tho.

Photos will get posted the day after tomorrow, when we're in Venice. We know where the internet places are there.

Anne

Bassano Del Grappa day two

We got to go up to Asiago where they make cheese of the same name. Fortunately. we rode up in a bus as it was 3000 ft vertical in 15 miles. It would be a spectacular ride, and some riders were doing it. There were 14 hairpin switchbacks and the a town. Then more. We felt fortunate to be on the bus. At the top we found green meadows with grazing cows, a little ski hill, alpine houses and blue skies. The cheese tour was similar to most, with the added issue of language. The cheese is very good, and worth the price.

We then got bussed back to the hotel aand had a break for lunch on our own. We tried to find the elusive internet café and failed. I had a nap, then we had the walking tour followed by grappa tasting. The city has medeval walls and castle, has been part of vincenza then Venezia, and is at a key spot a the end of a pass thru the mountains from Austria. In fact, the area where the cheese factory was Germanic or an independent state until after wwI. So they make the cheese two ways, the german way and the italian way. Bassano was the site of heavy fighting in both wars and it,s famous bridge was destroyed both times.

The bridge is wood, was designed by Palladio, and uses trapezoidal wooded support to resist the water. They are narrow and pupendicular to the bridge. Downstream of the bridge a canal is diverted that goes all the way to Padua. In the 17th and 18th centuries the commerce was by boat.

We tasted the grappa (distilled from grape skins) and other liquers made by the Nardini family, who have been making it since the 1770's.

The grappa is 100 proof so pretty strong. They use it to make some infused liquers.

Aftr the tasting we tried again to find the internet café. Peggy gave up, then I finally gave up. So no photos today. Bassano is very pretty. Like Sound of music pretty. Like Leavenworth and the italian hill towns mixed together.

Tomorrow we ride to Treviso, which is north of Venice. We ride 38 miles wich at the snails pace we rode yesterday will take all day. Since some of the elderhostel participants are in the 80's, we won't be speeding along. Hopefully we'll get ther ewithout losing anyone. anne

Bassano Del Grappo

Today we rode about 25 miles from Vincenza to Bassano Del Grappa. We are tucked into the edge of the hills. we rode thru small towns and farmlands. The country reminded me of the Skagit valley as there were mountains to our west and north all day. the riding was pretty flat until the last 6 miles. this town isn't a mix of leavenworth and Italian hill towns. We'LL do several tours here tomorrow including asagio cheese, a walking tour of the town and grappa tasting. I'll send photos tomorrow. I
It is spectacular here. ANNE

Venice and Vincenza photos

Sky in Venice after the rain
Everything, including excavation spoils, goes in and out by boat
Palladio's Olympic theater

Rainbow in Venice

Vincenza and Elderhostel

We spent yesterday dodging raindrops, hiding in our hotel room, then venturing out to see some local museums. After 3 we walked down to the Elderhostel hotel and checked in. We met up with one of the guides and joined the group on a tour of Palladio's Teatro Olympico. It is a spectacular inside theater, designed by Palladio, inside an old castle then prison. It was finished after his death in 1580.

Today we had a lecture about Andrea Palladio, then a walking tour of Vincenza. We got to see mare examples of his work, and two different explanations of the history of his buildings. Vincenza is really patterned after his work. Even the telephone and postal building built in the 1930's by the fascists has the same palladian arch details.

We get fitted for our bikes later this afternoon. We are having a little free time this afternoon. Our group is about 21 people, with 2 guides, and they hire local guides as we go along. We are probably the youngest, and pretty much best in shape. Looking at the itinerary it seems that this won't be real hard riding. We figure it will get us back in shape for the Croatia tour.

I'll post some photos since it has been a while.

Our elderhostel hotel is quite luxurious compared to the places we've been staying on our own. There was even room for both of us to do yoga at the same time which is not common in most hotel rooms.

Bathrooms, toilets etc:

The good: we have bidets in quite a few hotel bathrooms. Don't need one, but it means there is space. Space is good. The only place we've had a tub was in Soriano, and that was in the bedroom. Some showers were so small you couldn't bend over to pick up the soap. Toilets. All flush differently. Some with tanks, some not. Some with seats, some not. The worst, if you don't count dirty, are the ones with places for your feet, and you squat. We're glad we've been doing our yoga.

Anne

Vincenza

We are in our hotel room in Vincenza, about an hour by train west of Venice. As we were getting ready to leave Venice, another rbig thunderstorm hit. We made in onto the vaporetto to head to the train station as the storm hit. We were glad to be in the train station and on the train. It was still raining when we got to Vincenza and is still raining now. We are watching Italian tv and brought back food from the deli for dinner. It is colder and looks to be rainy tomorrow as well.

Vincenza is famous because of the buildings here designed by Paladdio. If you want to know the style, look at the back of your nickel. Monticello was modelled after the Palladian style. Since we're going to hear about it on the elderhostel tour, we're skipping the touring on our own. We found a bookstore with some books in english so I'm goo for a couple of days. Vincenza seems upscale compared to some of the places we've been. Many bookstores and high end stores. There was a big protest here today. We just missed it, we're not sure what it was about. Our italian newspaper reading in the coffee shop seemed to indicate it was about rejecting a US military base. Tomorrow weZll try to find an internet café and post some photos. For now we are warm and comfy. We meet up with the elderhostel group tomorrow afternoon.

anne

Venice final day

We are winding down the carbo loading part of our trip and heading to Vicenze tomorrow. We'll take the leisurely 1 hr train trip and get to our hotel for the night. On Sunday we'll move hotels to meet up with the elderhostel group.

This morning we went down to the water and took a vaporetto (passenger ferry) to Lido and had breakfast, then took the ferry to the St Elena neighborhood. It is the farthest out in one diection of Venice's 6 neighborhoods. It has a boat harbor, parks and streets that are not water and 15 to 20 feet wide. Also no tourists (except us). We walked back towards St Marks and our hotel, stopping to buy stmps, fruit,sandals, and have a snack. we were back in time ti rest before lunch. Lunch was simple sanwiches at a nearby place. We did .some shopping then peggy went to use the internet. by the time she was back a thunderstorm was approaching. We walked to a nearby square and saw people battening down the hatches. we got back to our hotel as the rain started. After a while the storm passed and we went back out. we finished our shopping, had a I course dinner, and walked out into the square in time to see sun on St George and a great sky. Later there was also a rainbow. We walked around some more and I enjoyed seeing the Italian men and boys reacting warmly to the rainbow.

We,ve read up on the elderhostel bike trip now and realize that we'll be repeating some of the Venice experiences with them. Oh well I'm glad to have had our time at our pace here.

Anne

Venice photos

On our gondola ride
A singer in a gondola
Burano is famous for its lace and its colorful homes
Across from Venice
Peggy in a water taxi

Venice day 2

We spent today exploring some of the other islands in the lagoon that Venice is in. Murano is famous for it's glass blowing and Burano for it's lace. We explored both and spent varying amounts. There are some spectacular pieces on Murano and we are adding to our collection. We will have to figure out where these two pieces will go, but they will be stars in our living room.

We had dinner tonight in the same Rick Steve's recommended place. They have fresh salads and small portions, and it is informal so you are not expected to eat a 3 or 4 course meal. We have been carbo loading for the last 2 weeks and decided to control it a little bit. We had a great lunch, on Burano, of pasta, fish and salad, and then a light dinner.

Tomorrow we'll take it easy. Venice is spectacular, amazing, and very full of people. It is in the 80's here, and you spend a lot of time walking behind slow people. We did laundry in a self service laundromat today, and met some other english speaking travelers. On the Vaparetto back from Burano we sat across from a french couple and managed to cobble together enough english and french to communicate.

In the next few days I'll do a discussion on toilets. The differences, best and worst.

Anne

Venice day 2

Venice or Venezia

Peggy and I walked to the train station in Florence this morning and caught a train to Venice. We had a time constraint because we'd booked two tours with the same company for today in Venice. We got to Venice by noon. We took a a vaporetto to Rialto and managed to find our hotel. Then we took another vaporetto up to the tour meeting place and got some lunch up there. the first tour wasva gondola ride and introduction to venice. We then had a break and then a tour of the Doges palace. Then dinner at a Rick steves recommeded place with great salads and home to put our feet up. We've splurgrd here and have a canal view so as I write this I'm listening to taxi boats and gondoliers go by. We have 3 nights here so we can get some of our high interest things done.

It is just amazing to be back in Venice. It was extremely crowded at lunch but decent later. Lots of great sights.

Anne

Florence

We've had a great time exploring the little flower, Florence. From the sunset behind the Ponte Vechio (old bridge) to Michelangelo's David, this City is full of great sights. Today we did three different tours, run by the same company. One was a walking tour, the second a tour of the Uffizi museum and the third a David tour. The tours get you into the museum without waiting in line, and gave us a good city introduction.

I can't upload photos tonight, but will try tomorrow from Venice. We had some great food here, and some mediocre food. Rick Steve's recommendations have been great so far.

My favorite sights: David. 17 feet tall, not proportioned totally correctly but impressive detail and powerful. Tiztian's Venus. We got a print to go somewhere in our place. Sunset on the Duomo and Ponte Vechio.

Tomorrow we head for Venice. Three nights there.

Anne

In Florence

We left Volterra this morning, intending on visiting San Giomangio on our way to Florence. We did, but it was so crowded with tourists that we got money, had lunch, and left. We found the rental car place in Florence (thanks Mandy) and took a taxi to our hotel. We've sent a package home, which was expensive, and had a little rest. When it cools off a little we'll go for a walk. Tomorrow we do three different walking tours, the Uffizi, Accademia, and florence itself. It will be hot and long. Then Wednesday off to Venice via train.

I'm proud that we successfully turned the car back in, full of gas, and without dents. The full of gas thing was interesting. The stations we stopped at today were all self service, and each had a different kind of machine. At each it took a young italian gentleman trying to fill up their scooter, to help us figure it out. We had to fill up partway in San Giamangio since we were almost empty. Then we filled up in Florence. Lots of things are the same, and lots are different.

Anne

More volterra

I should add that we really enjoyed the Etruscan museum. We don't study them much, and didn't really know much about them. We have also enjoyed Volterra, as a small medieval town, and different than Soriano.

Anne

Sienna and Volterra

The Etruscan Arch, Port All'Arco, entrance to Volterra

The Volterran flag team marching to the competition seen from our hotel window

We are at a scenic overlook on the wall in Volterra, looking at the roman theater

The Duomo in Sienna

the pigeons drink from the fountain

Il Campo in Sienna